Video: Setting Your Clutch Pedal Stop With Tilton Engineering

When installing a new pedal assembly or a clutch with a hydraulic throw out bearing, one of the most important steps that is often overlooked or done incorrectly is setting your clutch pedal stop, especially if your release bearing does not have an internal stop.

If there’s not enough pedal throw, the clutch won’t fully disengage and you’ll be frying the clutch and eating synchros with every shift, too much travel and you run the risk of damaging the throw out bearing or pressure plate and making pedal feel and engagement inconsistent.

The pros at Tilton Engineering used our project FFR Cobra Jet Challenge car to produce a video detailing the steps to properly setting your clutch pedal stop for perfect engagement, maximum clutch life, and a transmission that won’t pulverize its internals to dust.

With the car on flat ground and parked in a safe working area, start by raising at least the drive wheels safely off of the ground (remember to use wheel chocks if only lifting one end of the car). Once the vehicle is secure, make sure that the clutch system is bled to remove any trapped air that would otherwise make clutch engagement inaccurate. Once this simple step is complete, we can actually begin the adjustment process!
Without depressing the clutch pedal, shift the transmission into first gear and then have a friend attempt to rotate one of the drive wheels, at this point the wheel should not move. Using steady force, have your friend continue trying to rotate the wheel while you slowly press in the clutch pedal.

Once you find the earliest point of disengagement and the wheel can be moved freely, note the clutch pedal position at the end of the pedal, set the pedal stop, and then add an additional 1/4″ of travel at the end of the pedal by adjusting the stop to properly set the maximum throw limit.

Once you have the pedal stop set properly, be sure to remember to tighten the locking nut or other style locking device to prevent the stop from moving on its own and ruining all of your hard work.

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About the author

Kyle Kitchen

Born and raised in Southern California, Kyle has been a gearhead ever since seeing his first Mitsubishi Evo VIII in 2003. He is almost entirely self taught mechanically, and as an inexperienced enthusiast always worked on his own vehicles, regardless of the difficulty, just to learn how to do it himself. Prior to becoming a freelance writer for the company, Kyle started his automotive performance career with Power Automedia as a shop technician, where he gleaned intimate knowledge of LS platforms and drag racing builds; then later joining the editorial team as the Staff Writer for EngineLabs And Turnology. Today, Kyle is an experienced EFI calibrator; hot rod builder; and motorsports technician living in the San Jose area. Kyle is a track junkie with lots of seat time. You can usually find him racing his Mitsubishi Evo X in local time attack and road race events.
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